Hienghène
A small Kanak town on the north-east coast of Grande Terre, where ten kilometres of black limestone cliffs rise from the lagoon and a rock shaped like a brooding hen sits in the bay.
- Arrival
- La Tontouta International · NOU
- To the town
- A little over five hours by road from Nouméa
- Private jets
- Into Tontouta, then by road
- Best time
- June to November
The city
Black cliffs on the far coast.
About 2,450 people live in the commune of Hienghène. Its bay is closed by the Lindéralique cliffs, black limestone that runs for some ten kilometres, and two of the rocks, the Hen and the Sphinx, are sacred totems: boats come close, but nobody lands. The best view of the Hen is from the footbridge at the base of the cliffs, and kayaks can be hired to paddle in beneath them.
Jean-Marie Tjibaou, who signed the Matignon-Oudinot accords in 1988, became mayor here in 1977, and the Goa Ma Bwarhat cultural centre went up in 1982 and 1983. Up in the valleys the Tiendanite tribe teaches visitors to spear freshwater shrimp. On Wednesdays and Fridays there is a market in town.
- La Poule The brooding hen of black rock, seen from a free lookout under flamboyant trees that turn red in November and December.
- The Ouaième ferry A free river crossing about fifteen minutes from town, running day and night in fair weather, the last of its kind in New Caledonia.
- Tao Falls Some 45 minutes away, the largest waterfall on the island that walkers can reach, with a pool at its foot for swimming.
Arriving
Tontouta, then across the island.
Hienghène is about 199 km from La Tontouta in a straight line, on the opposite coast. By road from Nouméa the tourism board counts a little over five hours, by way of Koné and the cross-island road at Tiwaka.
- Nadi 2 h 05
- Brisbane 2 h 10
- Auckland 3 h 00
- Shanghai 9 h 50 long-range jet
- Los Angeles 13 h 20 long-range jet
When to go
June to November.
Afternoons run from about 24 °C in July and August to 29 °C between December and March. Most of the rain falls from January to April, and the second half of the year is drier, with August to October the calmest. Even in the cool months the lagoon does not drop below 23 °C.
- 29° J 157 27°
- 29° F 183 28°
- 29° M 183 28°
- 28° A 109 27°
- 26° M 86 26°
- 24° J 79 25°
- 24° J 56 24°
- 24° A 41 23°
- 25° S 33 24°
- 27° O 38 24°
- 28° N 66 26°
- 29° D 102 27°
Elsewhere in New Caledonia
More reasons to come.
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