Mkhaya

In the 1980s the Nguni breed was close to dying out, and Mkhaya was started to save it. The cattle paid for land and then for the endangered species work, and they still bring in money. Six black rhino arrived from South Africa in 1995. White rhino, once down to fewer than 20, are often seen at close range. Eswatini's first two elephant calves in a century were born here in 1997, though the elephants were moved out in 2015 because they were damaging the habitat.

You cannot simply turn up. Guests are met by arrangement on the MR8 at Phuzumoya, usually at ten in the morning or four in the afternoon, and from there everything is guided, in open Land Rovers or on foot. Stone Camp has twelve semi-open units in riverine forest, lit by paraffin lanterns, with no electricity. Children under ten are not taken, and walkers must be thirteen.

• Black rhino Descendants of the six brought in from South Africa in 1995, tracked with a ranger.
• Buffalo The only population in the country.
• Nguni cattle The herd that started the reserve and still helps pay for it.